Take-All Root Rot on St. Augustine Grass

Question: The St Augustine grass in our yard shows significant dying-out. I’ve don’t see any grub worms, I’ve applied fungicide and fertilizer with not success. A neighbor told me about “Take All Root Rot” on St. Augustine. What is that? Ken, Brownsville, Texas

Answer: Ken, Take-All Root Rot may sound like a made up name but it is for real. It turns out to be a very destructive fungus disease on St. Augustine grasses (all varieties). Take-all root rot has been found from Florida to Texas and California as well.

There have been several “findings” which contribute to the spread of this soil-inhabiting fungus disease – Gaeumannomyces graminis var. graminis.

• Heavy spring & summer rains
• Heavy liming
• Fertilizers containing heavy nitrates
• Micronutrient deficiencies

St Augustine is not the only grass the Take-All Root Rot fungus hits. The fungus has also been found on bermuda grass, zoysia grass and centipede grass.

First Symptoms

Usually the first symptoms of take all root rot show up in spring and summer. The lawn has a yellow-green cast from the yellow leaves called chlorosis. As the fungus progresses a severe thinning in irregular patches occurs as infected stolons begin to die.

If all grass dies in an area it is soon replaced with weeds.

Shady areas do not seem to show the damage as much as grass in areas with lots of sun. St Augustine grass with a “heavy dose” of Take-All root rot, look patchy in decline when accompanied with a weak root system.

In areas where St Augustine grass does not go completely dormant, the greatest recovery from the fungus happens during the winter. However, when spring rains return, often so do the symptoms.

Take All Root Rot and Brown Patch Confusion

Often the fungus called “Brown Patch” and “Take All Root Rot“
are confused, as they carry very similar symptoms.

Brown Patch

• Rotted leaves and leaf sheaths
• Unharmed roots and stolons

Take All Root Rot

• Undamaged leaves and leaf sheaths
• Usually badly rotted roots and stolons, dark brown or black in color

St. Augustine grass sod damaged by take all root rot fungus often look as if the have the same usually yellowing foliage professionals associate with an iron deficiency.

Soil Types Not A Factor

Currently, the type of soil the St. Augustine grass is “planted” in does not appear to be a factor. The fungus disease has been found in clays to fine sandy soils.

Control of Take All Root Rot on St Augustine Grass

Take All Root Rot does not seem to play favorites when it comes to the varieties of St. Augustine grass which can “resist” being affected. The following St Augustine cultivars in sod farms and homeowners lawns have all been “victims” of Take All Root Rot.

• Common
• Raleigh
• Floratam
• FX-10
• Jade
• DelMar
• Dalsa 8401
• Mercedes
• Bitterblue
• Standard
• California Common
• Sunclipse
• Seville

So far the “best” solution for control is not chemical but proper turfgrass management practices.

Nitrogen – nitrate nitrogen (ammonium nitrate and calcium nitrate) appears to play a part the the occurrence of the fungus. Avoid using fertilizers containing the above nitrogen forms.

The “preferred” forms of ammonium-containing fertilizers (such as ammonium sulfate, urea, and ammonium chloride) are recommended nitrogen sources for well-managed St. Augustine grass lawn.

Instead of heavy fertilizer applications (which may contribute to disease development), monthly light applications of nitrogen are recommended. The other option is applying slow-release fertilizers to maintain growth over the season.

Mirco-nutrient deficiencies may also contribute to the fungus “living environment.” Foliar applications of mirco-nutrient supplements can also be beneficial. If serious mirco-nutrient deficiencies are present, soil applications of manganese sulfate may be needed to correct the deficiencies.

A soil test is always advisable to learn the make up of your soil and its pH.

Lime which is used to help manage soil pH has been linked to increases in the fungus. Usually it is heavy liming to watch out for. For St. Augustine grass try to maintain a soil pH of 5.5 to 6.0 on heavily managed lawns. Apply no more than 10-20 pounds of lime per 1,000 square feet yearly.

Other turf management practices to consider:

• Raising cutting height for drought-stressed lawns
• Timing irrigation
• Improving drainage in wet areas

Lawn Renovation

Recovery from Take All Root Rot is very often poor in St. Augustine grass. The only choice may be a complete lawn renovation. However, laying new St. Augustine turf over “infected” areas with Take All Root Rot is just not advisable.

Laying down Bermuda or Zoysia grass are not good options since both of these grasses are hosts to this nasty grass fungus as well.

The best option for grass replacement may be Centipede grass, since few fungus cases have been reported.

Chemical Controls

Controlling the Take All fungus with chemical applications have not achieved the best results.

Due the the high cost of fungicides, applications are usually limited to spot treatment.

The Take All Root Rot fungus so far has proven to be a battle not won with chemicals but with using best turf management practices.

Summer Crab Grass Control And Bluegrass Lawns

Question: Every summer our bluegrass lawn gets “infested” with crab grass, what can we do to get some control of this weed pest? Katie, Dyersburg, Tennessee

Answer: Katie, where crabgrass is present, watering should be avoided as long as possible. Frequent and light waterings are especially undesirable, since they do the permanent grasses little or no good, yet encourage crabgrass to spread rapidly. Keeping the mower blade set 1-1/2 inches or higher in hot weather prevents crabgrass runners from spreading and rooting so rapidly. Crabgrass cannot be cut close enough to stop it front setting seed.

Chemical preparations are useful for crabgrass control if properly applied. Instructions on the container for rate and frequency of application should be followed to avoid serious turf injury. Trial applications on an inconspicuous corner of the lawn give the home owner experience in chemical treatment and determine whether the amount of injury is tolerable.

The best season for applying and crabgrass killer preparations is from late July through mid-August.

The use of chemicals for crabgrass control is not justified unless the permanent turf grasses are improved by regular fertilization and higher mowing. For the Kentucky bluegrass-fescue lawn the height of cut may be kept at 2 inches until crabgrass is brought under control, then lowered to 1-1/2 inches, Crabgrass cannot be eliminated entirely in one year. All plants should be kept from producing seed for a period of several years. Even then it is better to keep the occasional plant from going to seed than to run the risk of a future infestation.

Dandelions, buckhorn and broadleaved plantain are readily destroyed by 2,4-D preparations. Applied according to the instructions, a small quantity of this chemical can destroy a surprising number of weeds. This chemical, and the sprayer used for it, should be kept away from other valuable garden plants since it may damage them. And if late summer or fall reseeding is planned, make the final treatment several weeks before.

Insect Pests That Injure Lawns

Most destructive of all lawn pests are the insects. Unlike fungus diseases which damage only small portions of the lawn, or weeds which we can tolerate temporarily, some insects are so injurious that they must be eradicated as soon as they are detected in the lawn.

A number of effective chemical insecticides are available for this purpose.

When using any chemical turf insecticide, the homeowner is cautioned to handle it with care because it is also poisonous to him in a greater or lesser degree.

Gloves should be worn because the chemical will penetrate small cuts on the hand and under fingernails. Face masks or respirators are also available, and to wear one when spreading an insecticide, is a reasonable precaution.

Keep children and animals off the lawn until the chemical has been watered in, and store it out of reach of children. Some insecticides are poisonous to cold-blooded animals such as fish, and care should be taken not to let the chemicals run into fish ponds bordering the lawn.

The below table list the: Insects, How to Detect and Description. For the best treatment for your area contact your county agent or lawn professional.

Identification of Lawn Pests

Types of Insects	How to Detect	Description
Grubs Japanese Beetle Oriental Garden Beetle Asiatic Beetle	Skunks and various birds, such as crows and starlings, visit lawns in more than usual numbers, tearing and pecking turf. Many mole runways in lawn. Later as roots are devoured by grubs, turf can be rolled back like a rug and turns brown. Look out for grubs if adult beetles have been present.	If grubs are suspected, examine soil to a depth of 2 to 4 inches for their presence. Grubs are grayish to bluish white up to 3/4 inch in length, curled in soil in half circle.
White Grubs the young of the June Bug or May Beetle.	By same means as for Japanese Beetle grubs. Turf becomes brown in large irregular patches, first in parts of lawn, later patches become more general.	Grubs are grayish white 1/3 to 1-1/2 inches in length, also lying curled in soil, but longer and thicker than Japanese Beetle grubs. Often thick as tip of little finger.
Chinch Bugs	Large brown patches in sunniest parts of lawn in hot weather. Patches resemble drought injury and become progressively larger. Damaged grass remains anchored to soil.	Close examination of damaged portions reveals tiny insects about 1/8 inch long with white wings and dark colored bodies.
Sod Webworms	Grass eaten off at about soil level leaving at first white or brown scars an inch or so long and about as wide. In severe attacks, lawns take on a ragged moth- eaten appearance.	Grayish to dark colored worm about 1/2 inch long with tufts of hair on body can be discovered in silk lined burrows by digging into turf below scar.
Ants in variety	Turf not damaged directly. Small soil or sand piles deposited on lawns which may kill out small patches by drying out soil.	Familiar, four-winged insects which may be red or black and of varying sizes. They feed on the secretions of aphids.
Earthworms	Numerous unsightly casts which. however can be swept into lawn when dry to increase fertility.	Slimy brown worms, usually several inches long. Found in most garden soils.
Tropical Earthworms	Unsightly casts far more numerous than those made by the common earthworms.	Smaller than common earth worms with a continuous ring of minute bristles around each segment of body. Musky odor. Whip around when held in hand.

Enemies of Your Lawn

Summary: Lawn problems come from 3 main areas, insects and diseases, weeds and carelessness. Knowing some basic causes and what to look out for can make a major impact on your lawn care and the look of your yard. In this article we will look at the main enemies of your lawn.

Lawn enemies fall into three main categories:

• Insects and Diseases
• Weeds
• Carelessness

None of these enemies is formidable; all are easily routed with the right “ammunition.”

The wise gardener, however, builds a strong “home guard” – a good turf – through proper fertilization, mowing and watering. When trouble does strike, recognizing the nature of the enemy is half the battle.

Japanese Beetle Grubs

Through the winter, Japanese beetle grubs live 4 to 8 inches below the surface. In April, they move up and start eating grass roots, often cutting them completely so that the grass dies. In June, the grubs turn into full-grown beetles, which dig their way out of the soil and fly away. In July, female beetles dig back into the soil and lay their eggs. In August and September, the newly hatched grubs feed near the surface, but in October they go down deep. Damage from Japanese beetle grubs, then, can be expected in April and May and in August and September.

Scott’s makes a lawn grub control product called “Grubex” which has shown to be effective and long lasting, although it can take some time (up to 3 weeks) before the grubs are killed. Read the labeled instructions for directions on applying Grubex.

Moles In The Yard

Another underground enemy – the mole – is less subtle in his attack. His presence is recognized by soft linear mounds of earth which are pushed up as he burrows his way underneath the sod. You can “deflate” these tunnels by pressing the sod down with your foot but by the following morning they may be “inflated” again or new tunnels will be visible. It is sometimes possible to see the mounds of earth undulate as the mole runs through them. In fact, one way to do away with Mr. Mole is to spear him by plunging a pitchfork into the earth as he runs through the tunnel.

Many methods of routing moles have been reported. Moth balls or naphthalene flakes placed in each runway are said to help keep them away, even hooking up and car exhaust and pumping the fumes into the moles tunnels. With all of the traps, extermination, and poison killing methods discussed. The best way to send moles on their way is to eliminate their loved food supply of insect and earthworms.

Lawn Ants

Ants do not feed on the lawn but build unsightly hills which mar the beauty of the lawn. They can be killed by using ant baits or ant traps according to the manufacturer’s directions. I’ve used “Amdro Fire Strike” with very good success.

Chinch Bugs

Chinch bugs may injure lawn turf severely in summer and they are usually more troublesome in dry weather. The first sign of their presence is dying of turf grasses in localized areas. Injury tends to be more severe in warm locations near barriers – such as pavements and buildings. The use of diazinon seems to control chinch bug. It is most important that treatment be made whenever the tiny young insects are abundant. The adult chinch bug has a characteristic white marking on the wings.

Lawn Weeds

Weeds are the greatest of all lawn plagues. Why are some lawns more persistently troubled than others? Often the weedy lawn does not have a vigorous turf cover to help combat the weeds. A weak sparse turf leaves the entire job of combating weeds up to you through handweeding or the use of chemicals.

The wise gardener enlists the lawn itself to aid in the struggle. Many of the persistent weed problems will disappear when the grass becomes vigorous enough to crowd out the weeds. The most common causes of thin weak turf on typical bluegrass-fescue lawns are inadequate fertilization and close mowing. Fertilizer applications of 5-10-5, or similar fertilizer are recommended for early spring and September. Proper use of fertilizer and high mowing will make the typical Kentucky bluegrass lawn a vigorous competitor of weeds. A minimum cutting height of 1-1/2 inches is recommended, and a height of 2 inches is better.

Crabgrass

Crabgrass is the most detested of lawn weeds. It is encouraged by close mowing, inadequate fertilization, light flashwaterings, overwatering, late spring or early summer fertilization, removal of grass clippings, and any other practice that weakens the permanent grasses.

Whenever crabgrass becomes a pest, consideration should be given to changing faulty maintenance procedures. Usually, generous fertilization in spring and fall, in conjunction with high mowing, will eliminate a crabgrass threat in two to three years.

Chemicals can be useful in eliminating crabgrass. Follow the directions and make trial applications to a small section of the lawn to become acquainted with the type of results you’ll get. Chemicals can be very helpful or very disastrous. They should never be used without careful consideration of the instructions as turf can be damaged severely by excessive rates of application.

Broad-leaved weeds such as buckhorn, dandelion, plantain and sorrel, are readily eliminated by 2,4-D preparations. The chemical 2,4-D is used in many weed killers (e.g. Ortho® Weed-B-Gon MAX® Plus Crabgrass Control Concentrate) and can be purchased in most garden supply stores. Use care to keep this chemical away from valuable garden and ornamental plants for they may be severely injured by it. The best control and kill crabgass is by applying preemergent herbicides at the right time.

Heavy Traffic

Traffic should be at a minimum when the soil is moist because severe soil compaction occurs at that time. Traffic also should be distributed over the lawn area as uniformly as possible. Avoid walking over the same route so paths will not be worn over the lawn surface.

When turf has been injured by trampling and soil compaction, it may be desirable to temporarily close the area to traffic. Usually these sections of the lawn are small and it may be possible to use a handfork in the spring to loosen the soil without destroying the grass. On larger areas an aerifier will be useful.

Do not use the lawn for disposal of water containing strong alkalis. Burned areas are sure to result.

Shade

Turf grasses require sunlight for growth. Wherever shade is intense, turf grasses may grow poorly. The red fescues and rough-stalked bluegrass, Poa trivialis, are quite tolerant of shade.

Often it is difficult to grow good turf in shade although the red fescues and Poa trivialis are used. When this is the case, examine the situation for ways of improvement. High mowing strengthens grass grown in shade and is very effective for improvement of shady turf areas. Trees can be pruned higher to permit more sunlight on the lawn. Often this can be done without detracting from the beauty of the landscape. Frequent light fertilization of shaded areas also may improve growth without creating a crabgrass problem.

Summer Failures

Lawn grasses may fail quite suddenly in hot weather. There is no single reason for such occurrences. Disease, insects, heat, drought, and an excess of water may he singly responsible or may combine to cause failure. Careful examination of the turf at the time the injury occurs may reveal the responsible factor or factors, hut it usually will be very difficult to determine reasons for failure several weeks later.

When the first signs of summer injury are apparent, examine the turf closely. Disease injury usually shows as circular type brown spots that vary in size from a silver dollar to several feet across. These may appear very suddenly on any portion of the lawn. Control measures are discussed below under “Bentgrass.”

Lawn grasses may suffer severe injury in dry hot weather. Yet it is likely that considerable disease and insect injury is blamed to heat or drought. A healthy mature lawn should survive 25 to 50 days of dry weather without injury. The more drought-resistant lawns are those where the grass has been cut high and the soil has been properly limed over a period of years. Lawns seeded in the spring are likely to suffer severely during the first summer. Fall-seeded lawns are usually more tolerant of heat and drought.

The first signs of drought damage occur on warm exposures or near trees. Many lawns turn brown in dry hot weather and will recover almost completely with the first cool moist weather. If the lawn appears to he suffering from a lack of moisture, examine the soil. If it is dry to a depth of 4 or 5 inches, apply water slowly to these areas until the moisture reaches a depth of 5 or 6 inches. Remember that all sections of the lawn may not need water at the same time. Avoid overwatering, as excess. moisture may ruin a lawn as quickly as drought.

Bentgrass

The fine quality of bentgrass makes it the aristocrat of turf grasses. Unfortunately, a bentgrass turf may have excellent appearance and then suddenly develop a large amount of brown or dead spots from disease attacks, which may occur frequently or very rarely. These outbreaks can be controlled quite effectively by carefully timed treatments with mercury fungicides. Since treatment prior to disease attack is required for good results, fungicide applications should be made regularly every 7 to 14 days when the disease is likely to occur. The correct use of fungicides involves considerable effort. and many people choose to take a chance on escaping disease. Whether fungicides are used or not, the bentgrass lawn should be kept healthy – a basic step in controlling disease. Moderate use of fertilizer and minimum use of water reduces the amount of disease trouble.

Control of thatch on bentgrass lawns is important in keeping the turf healthy. Thatch is an accumulation of stems. leaves, and roots at the surface of the soil that develops over a period of years. It hinders movement of water into the soil and is associated with serious disease outbreaks. Any cultivation treatment that mixes thatch with soil, or a vigorous raking, is useful in reducing the amount of accumulation.

Lawn Fungus, Disease and Turf Fertilizer Debates

The topic of lawn fungus or disease, fertilizing, irrigation, or whatever… is an on going topic, no matter where you live or the time of year.

From the grass having a fungus, to applying lawn fertilizer and if organic is a smart option. Below is a quick round up of what topics are being discussed in the world of lawns, grass and turf during Mid December.

Lawn Diseases

We talked about Lawn Fungus – Identification and Treatment and incorrect grass fungus diagnosis. Kelly over at About.com talks about spotting and controlling lawn disease.

“Most lawn diseases are fungal in nature and attack the lawn when it is stressed and the weather conditions are suitable for the disease. Hot humid nights or extended periods of rainfall are periods when lawn diseases become active.”

Organic Fertilizer Debate Rages On

Check out this organic soil fertility program.

Some interesting points of view on the use of organic VS synthetic fertilizer can be found at – The Wenatchee World.

… I’m confused. Take an if I buy the organic version of apples, I’m supporting pesticide-free farming. A good thing! On the other had, pesticides have increased the yield of fruit per acre of land. If I buy that organic apple, am I really supporting decreased effectiveness of farmland in a world where millions of people are starving? It turns out that what the “right” choice is can be argued many different ways.

I understand that when applying a standard synthetic lawn fertilizer, the application rate and directions need to be followed. It’s a chemical, and all chemicals have risks. If applied in excessive amounts, or on windy days, it can leach into the groundwater or flow into our rivers and streams through runoff. But, I would argue, if applied correctly, these risks can be minimized.

Lawn Fungus – Identification and Treatment

Summary: Lawn fungus identification and treatment causes many homeowners to look for lawn fungus controls and cures for possible lawn diseases using chemicals which may not help because of an incorrect grass fungus diagnosis.

Question: We think our yard has a lawn fungus and not sure exactly what we should do. Can you tell use the best lawn fungus treatment and broad spectrum chemical fungicide we can use to help control the lawn fungus. Someone recommended Neem oil as a fungus cure, but know nothing of it. Please help! Angie, Shelby, NC

Answer: Angie, lawn fungus identification and treatment can be a confusing and often times the homeowner gets carried away looking for a treatment and cure for what they “think” is a lawn fungus. They assume many times fertilizer will solve a lawn problem. (Click here for our article on How To Grow and Groom For a Lush Green Lawn) They also assume a broad spectrum fungicide will control any and all lawn disease and fungus.

I remember years ago reading a quote by plant disease expert Dr. Cynthia Westcott. She said, “In my experience, gardeners and insects, to say nothing of dogs, are more harmful than fungi to the average lawn.”

This is not to say a lawns never get a fungus, but the possibility of a fungus disease “wiping out” your beautiful lawn is slim. The possibility is practically remote if you lawn is planted with a mixture of grasses. Most fungus diseases attack a distinct grass species as their victim. This makes it difficult for a host of diseases to all hit at once and spread rapidly like wild fire through a lawn made up of many different grass types.

The only individuals who should be concerned about turf disease are the professionals – the golf course ground and greens-keepers. The reason is because most putting greens are planted with one type of grass, while the average home is made up of several grass types in their yard. This reduces the potential of lawn fungus diseases for the homeowner.

Please do not assume I am telling you that your lawn is not under a fungus attack. There are times when the weather conditions are just right and a fungus disease does take hold and cause serious damage. Before assuming a fungus disease exist in your lawn you should first learn something about lawn fungus and lawn diseases – how to identify their symptoms, how to control or eradicate them, but above all else learn how to prevent them from becoming established in the first place.

It May Be Lawn Fungi

Most of the common lawn disease are caused by a fungus (singular for fungi). In fact, fungi are tiny plants which cannot produce their own food supply and depend on host for their food.

When a fungus finds its home in a lawn the “fungi” stick their microscopic feeder tubes into the blades of grass. If the conditions and food supply are right, more fungi is produced at an explosive rate, and in no time at all they will suck the life out of the grass, killing it.

Probably the most common lawn fungus is a disease commonly called “brown patch.” There are two main types of “brown patch” fungus that attack lawns – large brown patch and dollar patch. You will most likely find either one or both of these fungus types strike during the spring and summer during exceptionally rainy periods. Depending on the severity of the fungus attack, there may be only a few brown spots in the lawn. However, if it progresses and you detect more brown patches, the best defense is to protect the grass. This is best accomplished by spraying the entire lawn with a lawn fungicide.

Ask your local garden center for the best solution (usually chemical) for the grass types in your area to remedy the problem. Follow the label on the container. Fungicides are poisonous, and all of them if used in excessive amounts or dosages will harm the grass as well as kill the fungi. For this reason alone, it is very important to follow labeled instructions exactly as they are stated on the container when using any fungicide. Normal growth of the grass should resume after treating with a fungicide and the fungus parasites have been eliminated. We will look at Neem oil at another time.

Preventing Lawn Fungus Conditions

The best way to prevent lawn fungus is to eliminate or minimize the conditions that make them happy to actively thrive and multiply. The conditions fungus finds favorable are the opposite for ideal grass growth.

Fungus thrives with moisture. Moisture makes fungus grow and multiply at rapid rates. When grass is more or less constantly dry, fungus has a much more difficult time establishing itself. Now, you cannot control when and how much it will rain, but you can control when your sprinkler system comes on.

When you need to water, you can reduce fungus conditions in your lawn by running your sprinklers during the morning or early afternoon. This watering practice will allow the grass the opportunity to dry off before nighttime – which is when fungus multiplies fastest. Lots of homeowners water after the sun has gone down and use the argument of “less water evaporation” as the reasoning. This may be true for saving water but it creates more favorable conditions for fungus growth.

Mowing the grass at a higher mower setting helps as well. When grass is mowed very low and is “scalped” the new growth is very tender. The tender, juicy new growth is a perfect setting and host for fungi, compared to the older, tougher and seasoned blades of grass.

When you follow the guidelines of proper, routine lawn care, you and your lawn should have little fear of turf diseases. A lawn full of thick, beautiful, healthy grass makes for a healthy lawn able to resist lawn fungus and other diseases very well.

Pest Control for Your Lawn

We are all aware of the continual struggle lawns, gardens and the landscape must wage against insects and other pests. We must apply insecticides (organic or chemical) before damage occurs. There’s little satisfaction in killing the bug that ruined a perfect rosebud. “Eternal vigilance is the price of liberty.” It’s also the price of a rewarding lawn or garden.

Whether flowers, vegetables, shrubs, lawn or trees, each part of the garden has its own group of pests. Since we can’t deal with all of them at once, we will narrow this discussion down to the worst pests of the lawn.

Pests of the Soil

These pests live in the soil, attack roots or stems of grass and other plants.

White Grubs – Large, fleshy, curved grubs with six distinct legs. They cat off grass roots below ground level leaving brown dead patches. Adults are brown June beetles that feed on tree leaves and lay their eggs in lawns. Larvae (young grubs) feed on grass roots for two seasons.

Japanese beetle larva – A typical white grub in appearance, but smaller. Adults have a metallic green body, reddish bronze wing covers and a row of 12 white spots along the sides and rear of the abdomen. Eggs are laid in July and August in lawns. Larvae feed on grass roots until cold weather and again in the spring. Killed spots look like white grub damage.

Sod webworm larva – Patches of dead grass appear much like damage of grubs. Close examination shows that stems are eaten off just above ground and have bits of silk webbing clinging to cut-off ends. Larvae are short, stout-bodied, hairy, active caterpillars hidden in soil. Adults are tan-colored moths that fly up erratically from the grass. They roll their wings when at rest and assume a cylindrical shape.

Cutworms – Occasionally, cutworm moths will lay eggs in lawns in the late summer. The following spring grass will be eaten off by large fleshy caterpillars. Birds flock into such infested lawns and feast royally on this juicy fare.

Ants- Many species may build nests in lawns or at the edges of sidewalks and driveways. Sometimes grass is destroyed, but in any case, the mounds are unsightly.

Japanese long-horned weevil – In recent years, this insect has spread from the East over much of the Midwest. Adult weevils are one-fourth inch long, have a blunt snout, are gray-brown in color. They feed on the foliage of many ornamentals in late June and early July. Their habit of invading homes in hordes is very annoying. Eggs are laid in the soil in lawns, flower beds and gardens. The grubs are very small, white and legless. They feed on roots of many plants but don’t seem to do much damage.

Control

All of these soil insects can be controlled by applications of any one of several excellent soil insecticides. Many new ones hit the market each year and are available as granules alone or with fertilizer or as spray concentrates. They give long lasting residual control when applied according to the manufacturer’s directions. These are found on the container.

When any of these materials is applied on a lawn heavily infested by white grubs, Japanese beetle larvae, sod webworms or cutworms, the large number of insects dying at one time may be dangerous to insect-feeding birds. In order to avoid this hazard, apply these chemicals late in the fall or early in the spring and water them into the ground. If you are worried about the birds, rake up or pick up dead and dying insects for two weeks after treatment.

Adult June beetles, Japanese beetles and Japanese long-horned weevils feed on foliage. They can be killed by applications of the multi-purpose garden mixture.

Another Class of Pests

Earthworms – While we all recognize the value of earthworms in aerating soil and incorporating organic matter into lawns, sometimes they become too abundant. When this happens, earthworm castings make the lawn rough and their activities may actually kill out grass.

Unfortunately for homeowners, there are no chemical pesticides registered for treating earthworms. If you want to avoid killing earthworms in your grass, consult your county extension agent to learn of insecticides least toxic to earthworms. On the lawn pesticides labeled for other assorted lawn pests and still commonly used, carbaryl (Sevin) and imidacloprid (Merit) both very toxic to earthworms.

Chiggers – While chiggers don’t damage the lawn, they make it unpleasant or impossible to enjoy in areas where they are common. They are very small, nearly transparent and hard to see. Chiggers crawl into hair follicles anywhere on the body to feed. This feeding activity causes severe itching and irritation to the victim.

Chemical control is needed in normal or wet seasons. A spray containing malathion (follow labeled directions), at a rate of one gallon per 1000 square feet of lawn surface will usually give control. Repellents are needed if you go into untreated areas.

Clover Mites – Clover mites are minute, reddish or brownish eight legged creatures. The front pair of legs is long and extends out beyond the head. They are not important in the lawn but enter our homes and cause annoyance just by their presence. Eggs are laid in cracks in walls. The nymphs migrate to the lawn to feed on juice of grass, shrubs and trees. As adults they migrate back to the house to lay their eggs.

Great reduction of this annoyance is accomplished by removing a strip of grass sod 18 inches wide next to the foundation all around the house. Keep this area free from grass. For additional chemical control, use the remedies given for chiggers.

Mosquitoes – We can’t leave the lawn without mentioning mosquitoes. While they usually aren’t raised right in your yard, the adults can and will fly into your yard to make outdoor life uncomfortable.

There are many “cure-alls” advertised and sold to hopeful home owners. But I don’t believe that there is a magic formula. You can reduce the adult mosquito population and the annoyance they cause by your own efforts. Your first job is to make sure that you aren’t raising your own mosquitoes. Look for low spots in yard and garden where water can stand for seven to ten days. Check saucers, fountains, small pools, fish pools and bird baths. “Intentional” water, such as that in bird baths and wading pools should be changed every five to seven days. Be very careful in treating any fish pools.

Your next job is to provide a warm welcome to every adult mosquito that tries to rest during the day in your shrubs, ornamentals and flower beds. You do this by spraying or dusting these resting places with one per cent malathion. Malathion loses its residual killing power in three to five days, so the treatment must be repeated weekly – perhaps all summer long. You see, mosquitoes may fly several miles from their breeding place. The adults may live for three to six weeks or even more. So a short dry spell may dry up the breeding places, but doesn’t kill the hungry adults. That’s your job.

This program of residual control kills the adults that rested during the day in your yard. As a result you can spend the daylight and twilight hours in mosquito-free comfort. After dark, however, adult mosquitoes fly over the treated hedges and land on you. So you will need to use a repellent like OFF if you want to stay outside.

By H. Gunterson

Fighting Lawn Weeds, Insects and Diseases

Weeds in an old lawn, or in a new lawn, can best be combated with chemical weed-killers which contain the compounds 2,4-D. Using a granulated chemical with a spreader is sometimes preferable to a liquid spray. Spray must be used on a day when there is little or no wind as drifting spray kills and harms vegetables, flowers and shrubs. Feed your lawn after spraying against weeds, so that the grass can thicken up and fill in the bare spots more quickly. There are bagged formulations combining the fertilizer and a weed killer called – “Weed and Feed.”

However, one must keep in mind that the best way to prevent weeds in the first place is to have a healthy lawn, with good soil providing sufficient nutrient for the grass you plant. Weeds come in, when the lawn is badly thinned for one reason or another. For example, a lawn may be thinned by diseases which are overlooked in our haste to lay the blame on weeds.

It is true for diseases that commonly attack turf, too, that preventive steps are the best, and that a healthy turf will be better able to ward off the disorders that occur. As we have stated previously, a mixture of seeds is more resistant to disease. Excess moisture in the soil seems to be a cause of many diseases. Another cause is poor circulation of air for the grass roots, due to near-by trees, shrubs, and buildings. You can do a little about this by pruning.

Close mowing causes some diseases since it weakens the grass and causes more succulent growth, which, in turn, brings about fungal attacks. If the mowing height is not below 1-1/2 inches, even though the lower leaves may be attacked, the newer leaves may not be.

Watering late in the evening is a poor practice because if the grass remains wet at night, disease is invited. And if you use fertilizer to stimulate turf grasses, do so in the early spring and fall when the grass is healthy, not during the summer when the leaf is succulent and tender and easily attacked by disease.

A healthy turf will not in itself combat insects, but they will not be able to do as much damage if the grass is strong. If you suspect insects, such as grubs, roll back a foot of sod. The presence of some insect infestations in your lawn may be disclosed by flocks of birds, such as sparrows, starlings and grackles; they drill holes in the ground with their bills to feed on the grubs, sod webworms and other pests.

Moles are seldom a bother in turf areas except when attracted to grubs or other soil insects in the area. This provides the key to getting rid of moles – getting rid of grubs. Actually, moles can be beneficial, they eat bugs, beetles, earthworms, spiders and grubs. But they do harm a lawn when they cause bumpy ridges, which then. become runways for mice and mice feed on bulbs and roots.